The Treasure House

Alchi Choskor is a place simply captivating

If ladakh is a celestial lotus then monasteries/ Gompas are its un-withered petals. Out of the twenty one  I visited, Alchi Choskor captivated me most. 69 Kms from Leh, Alchi- the treasure house of wall paintings and images, is said to have five lac miniature paintings adorning the walls of this

five-chambered monastery and after Ajanta these constitute biggest collection of Buddhist frescos in India. Most of the paintings have been done by a group of 32 Kashmiri artists- headed by one Bhidaka, the image maker, in 10th and 11th century AD; executed in accordance with the Indian (not Tibetan) traditions.  In two entrance -chortens painting of these Kashmiri painters and Lotsavo Rinchen Zangpo( 958-1055 AD)- the great translator & the Grand monk of Sumda, Zangskar; who build it, exist in the interiors. As per the inscription in Dukhang, its patron is one Skaldan Shesrap of Bro clan- a wealthy Prelate and member of a Tibetan noble family. May be Rinchen inspired Shesrap and the latter built only the second half of this choskor in 11th century;

Painted ceiling of chorten in the complex

after Rinchen had built the Lotsava temple. Thus Alchi belongs to Chhi-tar, later- spread period of Kadampa order of Buddhism; time when fourth king of Ladakh, Lha-chen Utpala and sixth king Lha-chen Ngo-drup, probably of Indo-Aryan Shahi decent, ruled.
  Alchi has several temples which are named thus:-
 1) Lotsavo Lhakhang- The Temple Of Rinchen Zangpo,
 2)  Lhakhang- The Temple Of Manjushri/ Jampal Yang- the celestial Bodhisattvas,
 3) Dukhang- The assembly hall,
 4) Lhakhang Soma- The New Temple
 5)  Sum-tsek Lhakhang-the three floor building and
 6) Kangur Lhakhang- The temple housing Buddhist canon/ scripture.

   Dukhang and Sum-tsek were built first, prior to 1064- when Rinchen was alive. Lotsavo Lhakhang was built after 1064 AD when Atisa & Rinchen had both died. Then Manjushri Lhakhang was built. Lhakhang Soma was built somewhere between 12th century and 13th century when Ngo-drup was the king of Ladakh. Style wise as well these five are categorized in three different styles of painting.

The things of interest:-

In Manjushri Lhakhang are Sakyamuni Buddha with Avalokiteshwara (Chen- rezik; the celestial Bodhisattva); central image of celestial Bodhisattava Manjushri / Jam-pal-yang & tantric deity Mahakala/ Gon-bo-Nakpo over the doorway but no murals survive.
      

Rinchen Zangpo

In Lotsavo Lhakhang the portrait of Rinchen Zangpo & the seated Buddha- stucco image of Sakyamuni , Avalokiteshwara & Mandala of  the Celestial Buddha Amitabha/ Od-pa-med; In dukhang is the inscription of Skalden Shesrap, 1000 Buddhas, 11 headed Avoloketeshwara, Atisa- the 9th century Bengali abbot who founded the reformist Kadampa sect of Tibet; 4 armed Maitreya/ Cham-ba-Gon-bo- the celestial Bodhisatva, Mahakala,5 Dhayani Buddhas with the celestial Buddha Vairocana/ rNam-snang in the centre, heavenly nymphs, statue of 4 headed vairocana, portrait of king and queen & prince in Central Asian style( turban, prominent beard of the king, Dardi not Tibetan looks, Inscription praising King Tashi Namgial (1500- 1532AD)- who renovated Alchi. Mandalas of Vairocana, Manjushri & Avolokiteshwara also exist.

In Lhakhang Soma deities in Yub-Yum, walls covered with murals and frescoes of Buddha, Mandala of Vairocana and Amitabha, Maitreya, Kalchakra, Hevajra, Avolokiteshwara, Amitayus, Mahakala above doorway, royal rider, Padhmasambhav and Santarakshita captivate visitors.

In the 3 tiered Sum-tsek (Probably built by Tsul- tim & later repaired in 16th century) the paintings have Mughal and Persian influence and objects of interest are:- the wood carved surmounts of façade, stucco image of Avolokiteshwara, Maitreya and Manjushri, ensconced in alcoves, draped in curious garments on which is executed miniature paintings about events of Sakyamunis life, some shrines and 84 Maha siddhis.  Inscription about king Tashi Namgial( 1500- 1532AD)- dressed in Indian style, who renovated Alchi, also exists together with hunting scenes, phoenix bird etc but most beautiful piece of art is the depiction of Sakyamuni Buddha in the form of Mahavairocana and scenes from his life depicted on the silken attires of Maitreya, and gorgeously painted Bodhisattavas. In short Alchi presents a real artistic feast to visitors, memory whereof never fades even when this heritage site calls for greater attention.

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